# How to Drybrush Miniatures for Fast, Crisp Highlights Source: https://minipaintlab.com/blog/how-to-drybrush-miniatures Published: 2026-11-11 Publisher: Mini Paint Lab Drybrushing is a quick way to bring out raised texture on a miniature by dragging a nearly dry brush over it so that only the high points catch paint. It works well on fur, chainmail, rock, scales and basing, and it is one of the first techniques most painters learn. It is also easy to get wrong, with chalky edges, stray streaks and ruined brushes among the usual outcomes. This guide covers the basic method, how to remove paint from the brush, what to avoid and how to correct a drybrush that went too far. ## What drybrushing does Drybrushing means loading a brush with a little paint, wiping most of it off, and brushing lightly across a textured surface. Because the brush holds so little paint, only the raised ridges pick up color, which leaves the recesses dark. The effect is a fast highlight that follows the shape of the sculpt. It suits textured areas such as fur, rock, brickwork, chainmail, scales and the ground on a base. It is less useful on smooth skin, flat armor panels or any surface where you need a clean edge, where an edge highlight with a fine brush is more controlled. ## Choosing the right brush Use a brush you do not mind wearing out. Drybrushing is rough on bristles, and many painters keep a few older or cheap brushes just for this. Stiff, flat or domed synthetic brushes give a sharper result, while softer round brushes give a gentler, more blended effect. The size of the brush should match the area. A big brush covers a base quickly, while a smaller one gives better control on a model. Because paint also gets deep into the bristles, do not use a good detail brush for the technique. ## Step by step method Start with a dark basecoat, then a wash if you like. Dip the tip of your dry brush into a lighter color, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel until little or no paint shows when you brush the towel. The brush should leave only a faint trace on the towel. Brush lightly across the raised surface with quick, short passes at a slight angle. Build up the effect in layers, going lighter each time and covering a smaller area, rather than trying to get it in one pass. Stop sooner than you think you should, because it is easy to go too far. ## Layering lighter colors A common pattern is a mid-tone first, then a lighter highlight, then a very light touch on only the sharpest edges. Each step uses less paint and a smaller area, so the transitions look natural and the model keeps depth. Use colors that are close in value for realistic results. A big jump between dark and light can look harsh and chalky. Mixing a small amount of the base color into each highlight is a way to keep the steps related. ## Fixing chalky or messy results Chalky, dusty drybrushing usually means the brush held too much paint or the highlight is too light. A thin wash or glaze in a darker color over the top can knock the harshness back and tie it to the rest of the model. Washes pool in the recesses, so use them carefully. If paint has landed where it should not, tidy it with the base color and a small brush once everything is dry. Brush marks across smooth areas can be repainted with a thin layer. Keep the work area ventilated and wash brushes thoroughly after use, as dried paint ruins bristles quickly. ## Care for your drybrush Rinse the brush in water as soon as you finish, and use a gentle brush soap now and then to remove paint at the base of the bristles. Do not leave brushes standing on their tips, and shape the bristles before they dry. Many painters label the handles of their drybrushes so they do not use them for delicate work by accident. If a brush has splayed beyond recovery, it can still serve for rough jobs like basing or applying texture. ## Where drybrushing works best Fur, scales, stone, wood grain, chainmail and many forms of terrain all respond well. Textured basing materials such as sand or gravel also pick up a drybrush quickly, which is why it is popular for armies and scenery where speed matters. On vehicles, drybrushing can show edge wear on metal, though the control of a fine brush is often better for neat chipping. Choose the method that suits the surface and how close the model will be seen on the table. ## Choosing colors for a natural look For natural materials, pick highlight colors that look like lighter versions of the base. A grey stone might go to a warmer light grey, while brown fur may go to a tan. Strong contrast between layers looks artificial, so keep the steps subtle. A wash between drybrush stages can deepen the recesses and blend the layers. Let the wash dry before you drybrush again so you do not lift it. If the effect is too bright overall, a thin glaze of the base color pulls it back. ## Practice on spare models Before drybrushing something you love, practise on a spare model, a terrain piece or a textured scrap. You will quickly learn how much paint to wipe off and how pressure changes the result, and it costs nothing if it goes wrong. Take photos of your progress. Zoomed-in pictures show chalky patches and missed spots that you cannot see by eye, and they help you decide where to add a final glaze or a clean-up pass. ## Safe working habits Wipe the brush on a paper towel instead of your clothes, and keep the towel away from open flames or heat. Do not point the brush at your face when flicking off paint, and avoid inhaling dust from sanded or dried textured paint. Wash your hands after a session, keep paints away from food and drinks and store them out of reach of young children and pets. If you use a spray sealer after drybrushing, work in a ventilated area and follow the label. ## Related buying guides - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-drybrushes-minis - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-dry-brushing-paints - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-miniature-paint-brushes - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-brush-soap-cleaners