# How to Paint Fire and Flames on Miniatures: Colors, Blending and Glow Source: https://minipaintlab.com/blog/how-to-paint-fire-and-flames-on-miniatures Published: 2026-11-12 Publisher: Mini Paint Lab Flames are fun to paint because they let you use bright colors and soft blends on a miniature that is often full of dull metal and leather. A simple fire is mostly a matter of order: dark red at the outer edge, orange in the middle and yellow near the core, with a touch of near-white for the hottest spot. This guide explains how to paint torches, fireballs and burning bases, how to blend with brush or sponge, how to add glow onto nearby surfaces and how to avoid a muddy or flat result. ## Understand the color order In a typical candle or campfire, the hottest part is the brightest. Painters usually move from a dark red or red-brown at the outer edges through orange to a pale yellow, and finish with a tiny near-white highlight at the core. The reversed order, with dark at the center, looks like smoke or a dying ember. Fantasy fire can be any color: green, blue or purple flames follow the same dark-to-light logic. Choose a bright pale tint of your color for the center and a deeper shade for the edges. Look at a photograph of a real candle or campfire for reference. You will see that the flame is not a flat sheet of color but a set of overlapping tongues, each with its own gradient, and a few dark gaps between them where smoke or shadow shows through. ## Start with the right base Bright colors cover best over a light base. If the flame area is sculpted in a dark primer, paint it with a pale yellow, off-white or light orange first, so the oranges and reds sit on top and glow. Thin layers keep the sculpted flame shapes crisp. Yellow and orange paints are often translucent, so a pale underlayer matters. Two thin coats beat one thick coat, which can leave streaks or a patchy surface. If the sculpted flames are small, a bright base coat can be applied in a single go with a fine brush. For larger flames on a base or a monster, use a bigger brush so you can paint a smooth gradient in fewer strokes. ## Blend from edge to center Paint the tips and edges of each flame with red, then add orange below it and yellow near the center, working while the paint is still slightly wet or using thin glazes to blend. Draw the brush along the flame, from the base toward the tip, for a flowing look. A damp brush or a very thin glaze can soften hard lines between the colors. If the blend looks patchy, add another thin layer of the middle color and let it dry. Small, patient layers beat fighting with wet paint. Stippling with the tip of a brush, or a dab with a small piece of foam, can also build a soft transition between colors. Keep the amount of paint low and test on a spare piece before working on the model. ## Torches, braziers and candles For small flames, paint the yellow shape first and add orange at the outer edge and tip, then a small red line at the very top. A single dot of white or very pale yellow at the base of the flame suggests hot light. Keep flames compact and sculpted to the model. The torch head or brazier below the flame is typically dark and blackened. Painting it dark with a few orange-red highlights in the cracks makes the flame look like it is actually burning. Do not forget the small touches, such as a faint wisp of smoke above a candle in grey or a bit of black soot on the wall behind a torch. These details make the fire feel like part of the scene. ## Glow on the surroundings Fire lights the objects around it. A thin glaze of orange or yellow on faces, hands and armor near the flame, applied on the side facing the fire, sells the effect. Keep the glaze subtle and brightest closest to the source, fading gradually. The effect is called object source lighting by many painters. It needs restraint: too much glow flattens the model, while a small touch gives a lot of atmosphere. A thin yellow or orange line along the edge of a sword, on a cheek or on the bottom of a cloak near the fire helps tie the light to the model, and it only takes a few brush strokes. ## Fire on bases and terrain For burning wreckage or lava-style bases, paint the ground very dark, then add glowing cracks in orange and yellow. Smoke can be suggested with a drybrush of dark grey on top of the dark ground near the flames, and ash with light grey. Pre-made flame effects exist in clear resin or plastic, and some painters use them to save time. Check that they suit your model, paint them with thin layers and seal them lightly. ## Safety and finishing All of this is painted fire only. Never use real flames, lighters or candles near models, paint or solvents, because hobby paints, primers and varnishes can be flammable and plastic can melt. If you want real light effects, battery-powered LEDs are a safer choice. Seal fire effects with a matte varnish if you want a natural look, or leave the brightest parts glossy to suggest a bit of shine. Use varnish in a ventilated area according to its label. Always work in a well-ventilated space and follow the label directions for any paints, varnishes or sprays you use on the finished piece. ## Related buying guides - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-glow-effect-paints - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-washes-for-miniatures - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-miniature-paint-brushes - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-varnish-for-miniatures