# How to Paint Metal on Miniatures: Metallic Paint Versus Non-Metallic Metal Source: https://minipaintlab.com/blog/how-to-paint-metal-on-miniatures Published: 2026-11-14 Publisher: Mini Paint Lab Swords, armor and gun barrels all ask the same question: how do you make paint look like metal? There are two main answers. Metallic paints contain real metal flakes and reflect light on their own, while non-metallic metal, often shortened to NMM, imitates reflections with ordinary colors. Each has trade-offs in speed, difficulty and look. This guide explains both routes, how to prepare the surface, how to shade and highlight, and how to avoid the dull, grainy results that put many painters off metals. ## Metallic paint versus NMM Metallic paints are the easier route. The flakes in the paint reflect light, so a single coat can already read as metal, and a wash plus a highlight finishes the job. They suit gaming armies where speed matters and the look is practical. NMM uses ordinary paint to draw the reflections by hand, with strong contrast between very dark and very light values. It takes more practice, but it can look striking and it is not affected by the light in the room the way real metallic flakes are. Metal comes in many varieties, from bright steel and polished silver to dull iron, warm bronze and rich gold. Picking the right metallic base for the job is half the battle, so keep a few shades of silver, gold and copper or bronze at hand. ## Start from a dark, smooth base Metallic paints cover better and look richer over a dark base, such as black primer or a dark grey basecoat. Make sure the surface is clean and free of mold lines first, because metallics highlight every scratch and bump. Apply the metallic in thin coats and let each dry. A single thick coat can look gritty, as the flakes clump together and hide detail. Thin layers give a smoother finish. Primers affect the result. A glossy or smooth black primer under metallics gives a brighter shine, while a rough matte primer gives a duller, more gritty finish. Test on a spare model if you want a particular look. ## Shade and highlight a metallic A dark wash into the recesses gives depth and tones down a bright metallic. Once dry, go over the raised edges with the same metallic or a lighter metallic to bring back the shine. Use a small brush to place highlights exactly on edges. Different metals suit different washes. Warm browns often work on gold and bronze, while cool greys and blacks suit steel. This is a general habit rather than a rule, so test on a spare model. Washes can also be tinted with a bit of the metallic paint to keep the shine. Mix a little of your base metallic into a dark wash for a shaded finish that retains some sparkle, applying it with a soft brush. ## Drybrushing for worn metal For battle-damaged armor, drybrush a lighter metallic over a darker one so that only the edges catch. The result reads as worn paint and bare metal showing through. Use a stiffer brush and wipe off most of the paint first. A small amount of dark brown or black stippled with a sponge or an old brush adds scratches and chips. Keep it sparing, because too many chips look messy rather than weathered. Use a stiff, old brush for rough drybrushing and a soft one for fine highlights. Metallic pigments tend to wear bristles faster than ordinary paint, which is one reason to keep a dedicated brush for the job. ## Painting NMM in simple steps For a basic steel, start with a mid grey and block in a darker grey on the lower side of each surface and a lighter grey on top. Add a near-black in the deepest places and a near-white at the sharpest points. The key is a sudden jump between dark and light, which the eye reads as reflection. Smooth the transitions with glazes, or leave them hard for a polished look. Look at photos of real metal objects for reference, since the pattern of reflections depends on shape. The strength of the contrast is the key. Hard, sharp transitions suggest polished metal, while soft, wide transitions suggest brushed or dull metal. Start with a modest contrast and increase it as you grow comfortable. ## Fixing dull or grainy metal Dull metals are often the result of a thin wash left on too thick or a matte varnish applied over the top. Re-highlight the edges after varnishing, or spot-varnish only the non-metal parts. Satin or gloss varnishes keep more shine, but check the label. Grainy metal usually means thick paint. Thin the next coat slightly and apply it more evenly, and shake or stir the bottle well because the flakes settle at the bottom. Avoid using household varnishes on metallics unless the product says it is suited to hobby painting. A test on a spare piece shows you whether it clouds or dulls the shine before you risk a finished model. ## Care when working with metallic products Clean brushes well, since metallic flakes stay in the bristles and contaminate later colors. Store bottles upright and shake them before use. Some metallic paints and solvent-based products need good ventilation, so check the manufacturer's safety note. Keep metallic paint away from skin and food surfaces, wash your hands after painting and dispose of paint water according to your local rules. Dispose of rinse water with care, and keep metallic and solvent-based products out of drains where local rules ask for it. A small jar for dirty water, left to settle and dry, is a simple habit. ## Common mistakes with metal One mistake is covering the whole model in the same bright metallic, which makes parts blur together. Mix in darker metals for hidden areas and reserve the brightest for edges and focal points. Another is skipping the wash, which leaves metal looking flat and toy-like. Do not worry about perfection. Even simple metallic paint, a dark wash and a bright edge highlight give a convincing result on the tabletop, and you can try NMM on a single character model when you feel ready. ## Painting shine without metallic paint Metallic paint is only one way to get a metal look. Non-metallic metal builds the shine from ordinary matte paints, with bright highlights placed where light would hit and dark values where it would not. It takes more practice than a metallic basecoat, but it can look sharper on small armor plates, blades and trim. Our article on non-metallic metal introduces the idea step by step. [Non-metallic metal explained](https://minipaintlab.com/blog/non-metallic-metal-intro) ## Related buying guides - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-metallic-paints-minis - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-washes-for-miniatures - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-dry-brushing-paints - https://minipaintlab.com/best/best-miniature-paint-brushes