Layering vs Blending
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Once you can base coat and wash a model, the next question is how to make surfaces look like they curve toward light, and the two classic answers are layering and blending. Layering builds up progressively lighter colors in discrete steps, like a topographic map of brightness. Blending aims to erase the steps entirely, producing a seamless gradient from shadow to highlight. They pursue the same goal by different roads, and understanding both will shape how you paint everything from cloaks to armor plates.
Layering is the workhorse. You paint the whole surface in a mid-tone, then apply a lighter mix to a smaller area facing the light, then an even lighter mix to a smaller area still, perhaps three to five steps in total. Each layer is thinned so its edge is soft rather than a hard line. Done at tabletop distance, the eye reads the steps as a smooth transition. Layering is predictable, repeatable across a unit, and easy to correct, which is why army painters lean on it so heavily.
The main skills inside layering are consistency and placement. Mix enough of each step so you do not have to rematch colors halfway through a squad, and keep the jumps between steps moderate; a huge leap in brightness makes the banding obvious. Placement means committing to a light direction, usually overhead, and shrinking each successive layer toward it. If the steps look too harsh when you finish, a thin glaze of the mid-tone over the transition softens everything and hides the seams.
Blending covers a family of techniques that remove visible steps. Wet blending mixes two colors directly on the model while both are still wet, pulling them into each other with the brush; it is fast and produces gorgeous transitions but demands quick, confident work before the paint dries. Glazing builds gradients slowly by tinting with many translucent passes. Feathering drags a damp brush along the edge of a fresh layer to soften it. Each method trades speed against control in a different ratio.
Choosing between the approaches is mostly a question of scale and stakes. For a forty-model army, layering wins: it batches well, it looks great at arm's length, and it does not care if you take a break mid-unit. For a hero, a display piece, or a large smooth surface like a vehicle panel or a flowing cape, blending earns its time cost, because big uninterrupted surfaces are exactly where layer steps show most. Many painters layer the army and blend the centerpieces, which is a sensible division of labor.
In practice the techniques converge. A well-executed layered model usually receives glazes that soften it toward a blend, and most wet blends get cleaned up with a few corrective layers afterward. Rather than treating them as rival schools, treat layering as your reliable foundation and blending as a set of finishing moves you gradually add. Practice on large curved surfaces first, shoulder pads and cloaks, where there is room to work, and the skills will migrate to smaller areas on their own.